Vu Thi Thu Giang, Pham Thuy Hanh, Nguyen Van Lam

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Abstract: Gynostemma pentaphyllum (Thunb.) Makino is a rich source of the herb in Vietnam. The gypenosides in this herb are triterpenoid saponins that have been shown to have moisturizing, antioxidant, and anti-aging effects on the skin. However, gypenosides are hydrophilic and have a large molecular weight with a bulk molecular structure which prevents them from penetrating and absorbing into the skin. To apply the natural active ingredients from herbs into skin care cosmetics, this research developed self-nano-emulsifying drug delivery systems (SNEDDS) containing Gynostemma pentaphyllum dry extract and applied them to emulgel skin care cosmetics. Prepared SNEDDS could self-emulsify in the water to form nanoemulsions with dispersed droplet sizes less than 20 nm with PDI < 0.3. The proportion of saponin entrapped in the oil droplets of nano emulsification was more than 90%. When combined with emulgel excipients, the obtained cosmetic products had nano-sized dispersed droplets less than 200 nm with uniform droplet size distribution, which are promising for application when further research is carried out.

Keywords: Self-nano-emulsifying Drug Delivery System (SNEDDS), Gymnostemma pentaphyllum dry extract, cosmetic, emulgel, nano-emulsion.